Embera

Panama is a land rich with culture that predates the arrival of the Europeans (who subsequently brought much destruction). In Panama there area about a half a dozen native tribes who are doing their best to maintain their culture in a world that is changing beyond rapidly.

One of those tribes is the Embera. A group of warm, colorful peoples, who make their homes along the rivers and waterways in the jungle areas of Panama. They fish in the waterways where they make their villages and hunt in the rain forest. Starting in more recent times, they farm the land, eating plantain, cassava and other foods. They utilize the resources in the natural world to make instruments and to derive colors to tie baskets and to pain their bodies. They still rely on shaman and natural remedies for ails to body and mind.

I knew that while in Panama, I wanted to take the girls to visit some of the cultures that lived closer to the earth. I wanted them to get up close to those that lived more like the old ways as well as see a very different way of living. Amara and Havana's lives are vastly different from the Embera;  they are are privileged western children,. Yet, the western world is very poor when it some to certain areas of life. The Embera may not have the same material comforts as my girls do. but they are equally rich. This is in part due to their relationship to the natural world as well as their deep sense of community and their understanding of the world on a a deeper, spiritual level.

Personally, I was very moved during our visit with the Embera. Through our translator, I asked many questions. At one point, I was told I was asking questions "like an anthropologist." I replied that I was curious how they shared their stories; How their history was passed down. My answer was," that much was lost due to those who invaded" from Europe too many moons ago. Upon hearing that reply, I looked at my host, straight in the eyes, my own filled with tears and through my translator told him, "I am sorry for all that you lost through colonism and imperialism." His gaze, full of emotion as well, met mine for a minute. He shook his head and in that moment, we connected deeply. Despite our language differences, our hearts knew no barriers. 

After we learned the history, we were given a tour of their small but comfortable village and then took a short walk in the jungle where were where shown what different trees and vines provided. We also tried some fruits that we quite yummy.
The highlight for the girls may have not been the Embera though. One family had adopted an orphaned Capuchin monkey that we got to hold.

Well, that is not totally true. The girls loved the dancing and they were tickled when their father danced with the women. When we were ready to leave, they got temporary tattoos, made from vines, which they proudly displayed during the remainder of our adventures in Panama.

I trust that our time with the Embera was both enlightening and educational and that the things we experienced planted seeds that will take root and blossom over the course of both their lives. For this is why we travel. Open hearts equal open minds equal open, loving, and meaningful lives.

We were offered fish and plantain to eat. Even Havana enjoyed it!

Our host

The leader of the village. I found her just exquisite; physically and mentally.

Traditional boat used for fishing.

What Do You See? (Gamboa)

The Gamboa Resort, situated at the end of the road to Gamboa, in the middle of a national park of rainforest, wetlands, the Panama Canal, Gatun Lake and the home of the Embera People,was the ideal place to discover things colorful, exciting, educational. From the hidden toucan (my absolute favorite bird) to the mammoth cargo ships; wherever we looked, we were oohing and ahhing at all the sites that surrounded us. Gamboa did not disappoint.

Embera Village; one of the native people's home.

The view from the lobby of the Gamboa Resort. 

Gatun Lake

My favorite flower; the Bird of Paradise

Two toed sloth hanging upside down in the tree. The guide used a bright light to locate them.

 Freighter Ship on the Canal

Destination Panama

Sometime last Fall, I saw reasonably priced tickets for Panama. The timing was, as always, Divine. I could manage to fly the whole family for less than four tickets to Hawaii (or even New York). Sorry beloved Hawaii, but you were officially off the table for our winter holiday!

It was further Divine Timing because I had been having the travel itch for sometime and Panama was one of the countries long on the top of my list of countries I wanted to visit. At the time, I couldn't say why, other than a strong desire of seeing sloth in the wild, along with the more tropical climate that suit me. But honestly, it was more of an intuitive pull. Which is how I tend to live my life as rule. 

Part of the joy that travel brings me is the preparation. Researching, naturally finding people who have traveled to that same destination and getting their input, researching more, comparing things. I love it all. I spent hours and more hours over the course of two months. The downside to that is I drove Don and the girls crazy! At one point Don asked, "Are we going to hear, 'In Panama...' for the next two months?" and one of the girls said another time, "Panama, Panama, you keep talking about Panama." Well, how could I not? 

The more I researched, the more I discovered the breadth and beauty of the land and its people. Deep history with indigenous peoples who have lived there forever and the European colonists who came, hurt, destroyed and settled. Of course there was the Panama Canal and the years,  massive expense cost but monetarily and to human life (more than 25,000 French died in the process) to build that massive engineering feat that allow trade and commerce to be forever easier. I have an odd fascination for cargo ship containers and knew I would be like a kid in the candy store seeing enormous freighter ships pass in the canal. More important the earth; the mountain, valleys, jungles and all the inhabitants in the air and in the land called Panama. And of course, the Pacific Ocean on one side and my beloved, home, the Caribbean on the other. Just the thought of seeing her again, taking refuge in her crystal clear waters, soothing my heart, mind and soul was reason enough to travel the 4,378 miles (and that's one way) to the bottom of Central America. 

So after not two but three months of preparation, off we were, on a red-eye, direct flight to Panama City, where our first stop would be the Gamboa Resort, built in 1907 just north of the city. It would be a safe, peaceful place in the jungle to settle in from the long journey and where we were most welcomed by Panama.

After traveling all night and getting only a few hours sleep, the girls were remarkably happy and excited. The girls are fantastic travelers. We were so proud of them and when we reached Gamboa, of course they had to explore and try out everything in sight.

 After we settled in, we took a tour to the Gamboa Sanctuary where we saw sloth, butterfly and the famous Panamanian tree frog. Gamboa is set in the middle of Soberania National Park. We were blissfully nestled in between trees and the Charges River and the Panama Canal. 

 The sloths were the highlight of the tour. And who knew we would see them within hours of arrival. I knew right then that Panama had magic and beauty in store for time there.

 We learned that there are two toed (below) and three toed (above) sloth. The two toed are a bit more aggressive than the other. 

While it was great seeing the inhabitants in the sanctuary, it was pretty darn cool seeing those who lived out in the wild, like this huge bearded dragon. Eagle Eye Amara spotted this fella. 

When we finally went to sleep the first night, we were full with so many new memories and stories. I often say that an open mind and an open heart bring an open life. Traveling does that; it opens the heart and mind and brings an open life. Our first day in Panama proved that once again.