Message from Mother Earth

Photo taken in Puetro Viejo, Limon Province, Costa Rica 2/2019

On the Road to Puerto Viejo

When Costa Rica called at my heart strings, it was the natural world that got me the most excited. Costa Rica lies on both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea. Most tourists make their way to the surfing beaches of the Pacific. I had absolutely no inkling to head that way. That on the east was my beloved Caribbean was all I needed to know. Ever since I set eyes on the Caribbean Sea at age 19 I knew that that part of the world would always feel like home. Many places call to me but when I find myself in the turquoise waters of the Carib it's like a mother's warm embrace. 

Don having lived eight years in Jamaica himself could relate to my love for this sea. He had traveled to Costa Rica some twenty years ago but not to the eastern side of the country. I was thankful that as a family, we shared in exploring this new destination together. Panama provided both coasts as well (and we did spend time on both). Without any solicitation from me, both girls also felt that our time in the Carib was really special. When we left the remote national park in the north (which was also on the Carib side but we were more in the jungle) we were filled with anticipation.

It was a long but tranquil drive to the Limon Provence. Puetro Viejo, where we'd hole up for the remainder of our time, lay almost at the southeastern part of the country.  Along the way, we passed through a lot of open space,  some ranches, countless rivers and small towns until we arrived in Limon, the capital city of the province. Not wanting to extend an already long day, we picked up supplies at the local farmers market, grabbed a take away lunch, some new flip flops and continued on. It was also really hot so we were not at all encouraged to walk around the concrete jungle.

 Even though we just glimpsed at Limon, I knew what had I read to be true; that on this side of the coast were people of African decent. Jamaicans settled her in the late 1880's influencing the culture in many ways including music, food and the sound of patios.  Not only could we find breadfruit, yam and green banana but the style of cooking was quite similar to yard (that is another name for Jamaica). Almost immediately, I had fantasies of tossing away my passport, finding a small house to rent (away from the city) and settling down. I truly feel at home in the environment I encountered.

When we arrived to Puetro Viejo, the sun still strong in the sky, the girls didn't make haste of jumping into the pool at our villa in the jungle. While I really wanted a room in the jungle with a view of the sea but that was hard to find.  I had certain boxes to tick off when booking a room with two small travelers. A pool is in the top three. Havana especially not only enjoys the pool but it is soothing and calming for her.  A pool also keeps the girls entertained. I often refuse to get in the pool so Don and the girls can spend hours together playing.

Since I could not find all that what I wanted, I had to choose between jungle and sea. Just a mile into the hills, the possibility of waking to howlers, toucans and other wildlife won over but every day of our stay found us at the sea.

I had only one regret when we had to pack up to had back to San Jose. That was that our time was far too short. Being on a school break did not allow for us to settle more deeply. We all agreed that we wanted to return but next time for a more extended stay.

                                                                                            
                                                           

Chicken of the Tree

We knew we'd see plenty of special four legged and winged ones during how short stay in Tortuguero but we had not idea just how many Iguanas we would come across. When I say many, I mean countless. Even they are so so common, there is something about their ancient looking self that is  endearing. The locales however think they are tasty. After I jokingly remarked that they were so big I bet folks could eat them, our river guide informed us they are called chicken of the tree. You can fill in the rest! 

Here are just a few of the photos we took of the Iguanas.

Not So Odd Couple

Our family got such a kick out of these two friends. A turtle and a green/blue bird, hanging out peacefully together, catching some rays in between the frequent rain that makes Tortuguero such a rich, diverse place.

Moments like this are what keep my travel wanderlust alive.

Tortuguero National Park

When we arrived in the capitol of Costa Rica, it was about an hour before sunset. Knowing that we would be renting a car in a foreign country, with roads similar to Jamaica, we planned to stay in the city and venture out early in the morning. It turned out to be a good call. We were up at 2:45 am to catch our early flight. By the time we reached our hotel around 5:30 pm, we were spent. A swimming pool and pizza served through room service never felt so good!

With a solid nights sleep, we ventured northeast, along winding roads, over mountains, until we found ourselves passing through small, sparsely populated towns. Three plus hours later, we made it to the docks in La Pavona. There we left our care in a secured parking lot, grabbed a snack and caught a motor boat for the hour ride to the village of Tortugero, which sat next to the national park of the same name. 

I had been looking forward, with great anticipation, to spending time what may be the most isolated part of the country.  The draw was the rain forest, rich in it's biodiversity. There are no roads. All access is by boats. In years gone by, the village was settled by loggers. Now, with the country more focused on preserving the national world instead of clear cutting, Tortugero is a tourist destination served by mostly immigrants of Nicaraguans who came to find work and ended up settling along the banks of the river and making it home. 

We had two days and nights in the village and we made the most of it. The girls were initially taken back by our backpacker hostel room. That room was booked with a purpose. I wanted the girls to continue building a thick skin for travel, which means that fancy rooms and swimming pools are not always available. Living as close to how those in this small village of 2000 did, it gave them the opportunity to understand how life was in this far removed place. The rooms were clean, the beds comfortable and the grounds lovely. No, there was no hot water for showers,  the lighting was dim in the rooms and the WiFi sparse. All things that make thicker skin for traveling. One thing that helped them to adjust to the more basic accommodations were the hammocks, very large crabs and the rooster that served an alarm clock!

This was the reception area of our lodging. After a long, hot day exploring the girls were happy to have a bit of screen time.

During our time in Tortuguero, we went on several excursions, all which allowed us see some of the vast wildlife of the region. Night hikes meant sightings of snakes, sloths and spiders. We got up close to the famous Costa Rican red eyed, green tree frog and marvel at the cutter ants, who work so preciously as teams.

the green tree snake

the Amara monkey

Our two hour river tour quickly taught us all why the rain forest is named such. It rained on and off throughout our time on the river but the rain brought relief from the hot, sticky heat. I personally love the heat but the humidity can be hard if not used to it. The girls, especially Havana, struggle with the type of temperatures we encountered in the rain forest. 

Our  river guide brought us a bit too close to Caimans (we seem to have a pattern of that; grizzly in Alaska, bison in Yellowstone and now these alligatorid crocodilian) but he also helped us to locate some of the most beautiful birds including my all time favorite, the toucan. I was delighted to see a different species for the first time. We saw blue herring wintering in the park along with spider monkeys and howlers who could be heard for miles before they were seen. To be in little channels along the river, were it was refreshingly devoid of humans (other than us!) was humbling and reassuring that Mother Earth truly is in charge. 

the toucan is my most favorite bird. unusual, unique, bright, colorful. maybe i see a kindred spirit in the toucan?! our guide taught us their song so we knew when they were nearby. that served me on the remainder of our trip. 

The last outing was a hike through the national park. We were staying at the part of town that was literally less than five minutes to the entrance. Because of frequent rain, we borrowed boots from out tour operator and then headed out. Once again, the land called the amazon of Central America, did not disappointment. The red poison dart frog's vibrant red could easily fool someone into getting maybe too close. The spider monkey's playing above our heads were silly and playful. The second growth trees and ferns provided shade as they were so bit and broad. Their deep greens soothing. But my favorite part of the hike was when we reached the end, for their in her rough glory was the Caribbean Sea.

The area was more than just wildlife and rain forest however. Every person we came into contact with was kind, genuine and warm. We had some great meals and I even had one of the best massages in years.  When we boarded our motor boat for the return passage, I wished we had had more time. We were not off the grid but it was pretty close. The simple pace of the land, water and people slowed us down and left us grounded, appreciative and grateful for all we had seen.