El Valle de Anton

After a week in the sea and then the ocean, soaking up more than our share of vitamin D, we left Rio Hato for one last adventure in Panama. At the heat of midday, we set out and headed 40 miles north, up curvy roads that ascended into the cooler mountains of El Valle.  The days were still warm but not as hot as the beach or the concrete walkways of the city. While I prefer higher digits, it was a nice respite to head to the hills. El Valle afforded perfect temperatures (70 something during the day) but at night, similar to Bay Area, a windy fog rolled in just before sunset making the air cool and crisp. 

El Valle is a peaceful, lush valley surrounded by rivers and national park. While the highlight there was to stay with some rescued sloth, we still found the town to be quite special. 

For two days we walked or cycled to find food (it was wonderful to not set foot in a car), a thermal bath or to see about horseback riding. Our hosts, Ursula and Harry, at our loding were more than accommodating with steering us in the right direction for all those things.

El Valle also had something that is on my 'must do' list on any traveling adventure; a local market. El Valle's sweet market was complete with both foods and crafts for sale. A local market speaks volumes about the area and the El Valle market told us that the town served both the local and tourist populations, which seemed smaller rather than larger, yet provided just about anything one might need.

During a solo hike at dawn, I found myself daydreaming that I could easily spend extended periods of time in the mountain town of El Valle. Green, lush, plentiful flowers and warm people, it seemed a great place for us to return one day. And when we left, we had rich memories that would stay with us for more than an extended stay.

Only Amara and I wanted to check out the thermal baths. We had to bike quite a ways and for Amara it was a bit feat. She did amazing!

When I saw our faces  with clay from the baths, I gave an impromptu lesson about black face in the USA. That moment of silliness along with seriousness was also a good lesson about life having alot of grey areas.

We went for an hour and a half horse ride along narrow country roads, up to a national park. The horses were quite relaxed the whole time, stopping to eat grass and plants all along the way. On the way back, however, my horse Ferdinand took off and we near galloped all the way home! Don, he was opted to hike along side while we rode!

Harry helped us get to and from the horses with Amara riding on the back of his two person bicycle.
Here he is on our return.

               
 

Don had to ride Havana old school style. She wouldn't walk and she is not yet that proficient in solo riding! While the weather was color than the coast, it was still quite toasty and Don got quite the workout that day!

               

TV time back in our flat! (Spanish cartoons were a hit!)

Papa sloth

Sweet Sloths

Meet Sammie  & Dahabie Gonzalez; Two very, sweet, domesticated sloths that we fell head over heels in love with during our last stop in Panama.

Sammy (a girl) and Dahabie (a boy), were orphaned when they were babies. Sadly, Panamanians have historically not liked sloth. One of their mother's was killed by humans. The other's mama electrocuted by wires as she crossed the road (this happens far too often in Panama).

Lucky for these two darlings, they were adopted by the very committed and compassionate Ursula and Harry as wee sloth. They now make their home in a small bed & breakfast in the mountains of El Valle where they charm all of the guests that come to stay there .

When I was researching Panama, I knew sloth were at the top of things I hoped to experience. Seeing sloths has been on by 'things to do' list for many years. Nothing makes my soul child happier than seeing wildlife. During my research, I discovered there was the opportunity to stay at a place with rescued sloth. So while it was a dream come true to see several sloth in the wild up in Gamboa, the idea of staying somewhere where we could get up close and personal was something that made my soul child jump up and down at.

Meet Samie and Dahabie, the two sloth that allowed for that up close and personal experience. They were the icing on the cake during our last excursion in Panama. For two days, when in our flat at Casa Mariposa (that's the name of their home), the girls would watch them sleep (they do that most of the day), waiting for them to open their soulful eyes so they could say hello. 

 I was deeply moved by these two sloth. Their precious faces that seemed to smile at us, their soft fur and tummies that liked rubs and their preference for fresh food all aided in use falling madly in love with them. Much to our delight, when we arrived, we learned these two had a baby and so there was a one year old baby girl sloth that also resided there. We were so in love that it was hard to say goodbye when it came time to leave! 

In the month since we have returned home, we think about this sweet sloth family often. It seems every few days something reminds us of them and the joy we experienced in meeting them. Traveling to new places can open the mind and heart. Sammie, Dahabie and their girl did just that for our family and they now have a permanent happy place in our hearts.

The loving parents of the the sloth family.

Dahabie and his daughter. 

Pacific R & R ~ Rio Hato Style

 After our incredible stay in the Caribbean San Blas Islands, we sadly had to pack up and head back to Panama City where we spent a short evening and early morning before heading out to the coast again. The next stop however would be the Pacific Ocean, about two hours east of the city.

Staying in Rio Hato, at an all inclusive was the extreme opposite of our time with the Kuna. It was not a place we had initially planned on staying but when we got overbooked prior to leaving California, it seemed most logical to settle in Rio Hato before we had our final adventures in the mountains just north of the coast.  

All inclusive resorts are not at the top of our places to stay while on holiday. To be honest, I don't care for them at all. But the Sheraton turned out to be a perfect place to lounge, soak up vitamin D and spend ridiculous amounts of hours in pools and searching for seashells. 

We also read lots, had our fill at the buffet meals (which thankfully had lots of Panamanian staples like yucca, plantain and tropical fruits along with Havana's favorites of pasta, pancakes and bread!) and gave the girls a little rest from having stepped outside their comfort zones for days on end. While they were phenomenal little travels, they needed some of the easy, peasy, pace that the all inclusive allowed us.

Below is a glimpse of some of that snails paced comfort we took in. And while it was a lovely stay on the Pacific Coast, I realized once more that I am truly a Caribbean girl at heart.

Fruta de pan

It's no secret that I love breadfruit. From the first time I tasted the 'slave food' back a yad (that's patois for Jamaica) in 1988, I was a fan. 

When we were in Hawaii last year I spied a breadfruit tree but sadly could only enjoy it with my eyes. (read more about that here http://twosmallgems.blogspot.com/2017/03/breadfruit.html) So when it came time to plan for Panama I was certain I would get to enjoy fruta de pan on multiple occassions.

I was wrong. Turns out that the Panamanian's don't really eat bread fruit even though Panama is the perfect climate to grow it. But the Kuna Yala do! So when I spied a tree while in the village I quickly inquired how I could acquire one.

I was told it cost $1.00 as bread fruit is actually an important staple for the Kuna and if it was to be parted with I had to pay up. From my US standards, $1.00, was a steal, I thought as I quickly handed over a US one dollar bill. Our friend Tomas hooked me up and arranged for another Kuna fella to climb one tall tree in his yard to pick one. When he handed it that breadfruit to me, I held onto that like it was a treasure!

The folks back at Yandup Lodge were kind enough to roast it up for me. It was beyond yummy. But the best part? Havana Ruby even tried some (Don and Amara are already big fruta de pan fans!) and she liked it!! I also shared some with the Kuna folks on our small island which made it even tastier.

Breaking bread with breadfruit was quite a delight and made a cherished new memory for our family!

Caribbean Starfish

While in the San Blas Islands, we had to get everywhere by small boat. On one afternoon excursion, our guide/friend Tomas found some magical starfish which the girls took delight in holding. And even greater joy that we put them back safely where we found them!!

Caribbean Cartwheels

Caribbean cartwheels and other gymnastics antics; that's what Amara did on one tiny, uninhabited island where we spent a morning.

To be fair, this is what Amara does most anywhere really.

I think we see her feet in the air and her head towards the ground more often than not!