Chicken of the Tree

We knew we'd see plenty of special four legged and winged ones during how short stay in Tortuguero but we had not idea just how many Iguanas we would come across. When I say many, I mean countless. Even they are so so common, there is something about their ancient looking self that is  endearing. The locales however think they are tasty. After I jokingly remarked that they were so big I bet folks could eat them, our river guide informed us they are called chicken of the tree. You can fill in the rest! 

Here are just a few of the photos we took of the Iguanas.

Not So Odd Couple

Our family got such a kick out of these two friends. A turtle and a green/blue bird, hanging out peacefully together, catching some rays in between the frequent rain that makes Tortuguero such a rich, diverse place.

Moments like this are what keep my travel wanderlust alive.

Tortuguero National Park

When we arrived in the capitol of Costa Rica, it was about an hour before sunset. Knowing that we would be renting a car in a foreign country, with roads similar to Jamaica, we planned to stay in the city and venture out early in the morning. It turned out to be a good call. We were up at 2:45 am to catch our early flight. By the time we reached our hotel around 5:30 pm, we were spent. A swimming pool and pizza served through room service never felt so good!

With a solid nights sleep, we ventured northeast, along winding roads, over mountains, until we found ourselves passing through small, sparsely populated towns. Three plus hours later, we made it to the docks in La Pavona. There we left our care in a secured parking lot, grabbed a snack and caught a motor boat for the hour ride to the village of Tortugero, which sat next to the national park of the same name. 

I had been looking forward, with great anticipation, to spending time what may be the most isolated part of the country.  The draw was the rain forest, rich in it's biodiversity. There are no roads. All access is by boats. In years gone by, the village was settled by loggers. Now, with the country more focused on preserving the national world instead of clear cutting, Tortugero is a tourist destination served by mostly immigrants of Nicaraguans who came to find work and ended up settling along the banks of the river and making it home. 

We had two days and nights in the village and we made the most of it. The girls were initially taken back by our backpacker hostel room. That room was booked with a purpose. I wanted the girls to continue building a thick skin for travel, which means that fancy rooms and swimming pools are not always available. Living as close to how those in this small village of 2000 did, it gave them the opportunity to understand how life was in this far removed place. The rooms were clean, the beds comfortable and the grounds lovely. No, there was no hot water for showers,  the lighting was dim in the rooms and the WiFi sparse. All things that make thicker skin for traveling. One thing that helped them to adjust to the more basic accommodations were the hammocks, very large crabs and the rooster that served an alarm clock!

This was the reception area of our lodging. After a long, hot day exploring the girls were happy to have a bit of screen time.

During our time in Tortuguero, we went on several excursions, all which allowed us see some of the vast wildlife of the region. Night hikes meant sightings of snakes, sloths and spiders. We got up close to the famous Costa Rican red eyed, green tree frog and marvel at the cutter ants, who work so preciously as teams.

the green tree snake

the Amara monkey

Our two hour river tour quickly taught us all why the rain forest is named such. It rained on and off throughout our time on the river but the rain brought relief from the hot, sticky heat. I personally love the heat but the humidity can be hard if not used to it. The girls, especially Havana, struggle with the type of temperatures we encountered in the rain forest. 

Our  river guide brought us a bit too close to Caimans (we seem to have a pattern of that; grizzly in Alaska, bison in Yellowstone and now these alligatorid crocodilian) but he also helped us to locate some of the most beautiful birds including my all time favorite, the toucan. I was delighted to see a different species for the first time. We saw blue herring wintering in the park along with spider monkeys and howlers who could be heard for miles before they were seen. To be in little channels along the river, were it was refreshingly devoid of humans (other than us!) was humbling and reassuring that Mother Earth truly is in charge. 

the toucan is my most favorite bird. unusual, unique, bright, colorful. maybe i see a kindred spirit in the toucan?! our guide taught us their song so we knew when they were nearby. that served me on the remainder of our trip. 

The last outing was a hike through the national park. We were staying at the part of town that was literally less than five minutes to the entrance. Because of frequent rain, we borrowed boots from out tour operator and then headed out. Once again, the land called the amazon of Central America, did not disappointment. The red poison dart frog's vibrant red could easily fool someone into getting maybe too close. The spider monkey's playing above our heads were silly and playful. The second growth trees and ferns provided shade as they were so bit and broad. Their deep greens soothing. But my favorite part of the hike was when we reached the end, for their in her rough glory was the Caribbean Sea.

The area was more than just wildlife and rain forest however. Every person we came into contact with was kind, genuine and warm. We had some great meals and I even had one of the best massages in years.  When we boarded our motor boat for the return passage, I wished we had had more time. We were not off the grid but it was pretty close. The simple pace of the land, water and people slowed us down and left us grounded, appreciative and grateful for all we had seen.

Wanderlust

There is something about traveling, about stepping out of one's comfort zone and into
unknown, uncharted or unusual destinations that is enthralling.  Whether I am going into
unexplored places or familiar landscapes, my heart and soul feel a sense of freedom that
only comes when trodding across sea and land. On my many before kids journeys, I found
myself deliriously happy with just a backpack,small bag and my camera.  The backpack
with just enough (but never too much) clothing and essentials and my small carry-on bag
with my beloved camera, some books and room for those items that would make the
return trek with me. I could and have, passed up on many a material items but an airline
ticket to a new destination or even one to a place that planted seeds in my heart; that is

something I can’t foresee ending anytime soon.

When Amara was born, I knew from the get go that I wanted her (and later Havana) to
share in that same wanderlust. Yet I knew I had to take baby steps with my baby. At just
four months old, Amara, Don and I spent a blissful week on that sacred island called Oahu.
That is where Amara first laid eyes on and feet in the ocean. It was love at first sight.
From then on, we continued to make excursions that were exciting but doable with a little
one. Mexico for a week at fourteen months. Multiple trips to Florida to be with family.
Lake Tahoe and camping with friends and a holiday on Maui when I was pregnant with
Havana. Longer, more distant locales were on hold until later years but the seeds were

planted.

When Havana arrived two years and five months later, it worked out that we ended up on
Maui again. Baby Girl followed in her sister’s footsteps in making Hawaii her trip and at
such a young age. I think it may be safe to say that both girls formed early, lifelong bond
with the aloha spirit. (Hawaii is our most traveled place, other than Florida.)

As the girls got older, we started to venture further and longer. At just under two and four,
we bravely took off on a road trip to Arizona. We discovered then, just how much longer
driving could take with two small gems in the back seat. Bathroom breaks, food stops and
more made for a long drive to the town I once called home during college. But those things
built both endurance and patience as well as further helped shape the girls into solid
little travelers. 

Maybe it was because they sensed their parents' love of travel (at our wedding reception,
each table was given the name of a country we had traveled to while single or together
(only two of those at that point but we shared some joint locales) or maybe because they
traveled across country several times before the age of one but both girls have always
been great travelers. Armed with books, crayons, snacks and their Luvey, Ellie and Sucky,
they have never really cried on a plane or fussed. Like their mother, who first flew at
ten days old, they seem to feel right at home at thirty five thousand feet. It tickles my
heart when I see the same excitement at take off and landing that have always felt inside

a metal bird.

As the girls grew even more, we stepped up our travel game. There was hiking and elk in
Banff when still tots, then Argentina at ages 5 & 7. In between were winter trips to Hawaii
and a couple of trips to my native New York, where I introduced the girls to family, friends
and my old stomping grounds. We road tripped it to Yellowstone and back the summer of
Don’s 60th and followed that up a few summers later driving and camping along the
Oregon coast. We ticked off one of my bucket list destinations, Panama, where we all feel
deeply in love with two sloths and their baby.  We’ve gotten a bit too up close and personal
with a mama grizzly and her cubs in the back country of Alaska but that sure has made for
some good story telling! While all those trips stood out in their own unique and memorable
ways. I was preparing them for jet setting across the globe, which we did in 2018.

Our sojourn Southeast Asia may have been the highlight so far for our family excursions. 

During our recent winter break, we were able to make happen another of my bucket list
destinations. Costa Rica has been pulling at my Being for decades. At long last, with two
seasoned small gems, we made that dream a reality. I have to those days along the
Caribbean,Sea, both in the water and in the jungle, have made it to the top of my favorites
list. No matter where I go, if there are palm trees, warm, sunny days and wildlife, I am
in my element. Yet, I especially feel at home in the Caribbean.

The girls too, have learned to thoroughly enjoy both sand, sea and nature. They get such a
thrill exploring new places and seeing all types of wildlife. There are times when we get on
each others nerves (sometimes more often than not) but to be able to share in the gift of
travel with those I love the most is something I am deeply grateful for.

Here is the start of our adventures in the land of Pur Vida. I suspect we may find our way to
that gem of a country in Central America sometime soon. In the meantime, I am thankful
for my camera, which was able to capture some of the memories we created together.

It's always exciting to see your (rare) name somewhere! Even on a cigar store in the airport in El Salvador! 

Small carry owns for the girls and I. Traveling light is key to happy traveling!

This photo was taken on our first full day in CR, after a 3 hour drive to catch a small boat Tortuguero NP. I
Next blog post will pick up on our awesome experience there.