Kuna Yala-People's of the San Blas Islands

The Midwives, two sisters and a daughter (right)

Ukupseni, the village

The only way to get to the region is by air or a boat that takes 3-4 hours. The village is connected to the mainland  by a 300 foot bridge, where the airport, school and mountains lay.

On the Caribbean side of Panama, amongst hundreds of islands that stretch to the northern part of Columbia, live the Kuna Yala. These are the native peoples who have made their home on the islands for approximately two hundred years.
Prior to making the islands their home (they live on about 50 of the almost 400 islands), they lived in the jungles near the Panama/Columbia border (although I am sure back then there were no borders!)  Harassed by the Panama government for too long; which included being told they could not even wear their traditional clothing or jewelry, they eventually fought back. In February of 1925, there was a revolution. The Kuna stood up for their rights and won! (Woo-hoo!) As a result, they have been living in this autonomous region, relying on their own government, rules and laws. Ultimately, they still fall under the Panamanian government but for the most part, the islands are ruled and run on their own. 

The anti-imperialist that I am was ecstatic at this history. That we happened to be on the islands during the anniversary of the revolution felt like divine providence. We were able to watch their small but powerful parade that reenacted the original revolution and witnessed some dances (only 3,000 live on the island we stayed near). When the sun set we witnessed fireworks from our lodging island (5 minutes away by boat). I think there was much partying and celebrating going on across the waters which we missed due to being isolated on the tiny Yandup island.

The Kuna flag was similar to that we saw in Nepal. The one in Asia is a sacred symbol that Hitler changed for many reasons. The Kuna Yala came up with the symbol to represent two arms linked  together after the revolution. I found it interesting that a culture, so removed from the world, came up with a symbol that was ancient and sacred. The collective unconscious?

watching the activities

Our new friend Tomas informed us this was the kuna leader of this area.

That the Kuna were not allowed to have tourists visit until the 1940's is another part of their history. But since then, they have been very much in charge of who comes and goes, making sure that each tourist pays an entry tax that the villages receive. The Kuna use coconut as currency but the money used from tourist taxes and from the sale of their exquisite molas (a piece of handmade embroidered cloth worn by women but also used for other things by tourists, like throw pillows, bags, wall art, etc) further helps their economy. Being in charge of their region also ensures that the area does not become like so many other places in the world; a western looking tourist trap, filled with unnatural and exploitive expansion of land and sea. The Kuna have made sure to preserve their homeland, keeping the area as it has been for decades. Which had a most welcome secondary gain. It felt like we went back in time.

Tomas and his 10 year  daughter Elineth, who the girls became friends with.

During the celebration of the revolution, a makeshift jail is made and anyone wearing shorts or not wearing the color red is put in. Bail is 25 cents. Amara was desperately wanting to go jail. Oy vey!

       

While there is some running water and electricity (solar) and a cell tower built on one of the uninhabited islands, our home for the four days/three nights did not allow us cell phone service, internet or wifi. We were left to just be for the time were there; swimming and snorkeling during the day; visiting the village during the afternoon and otherwise just chilling with books or card games in an open hut over the water. 

We ate was what was caught in the sea that day along with lots of plantain and other veggies that were farmed on the mainland (gotten to by a bridge from the village island). Although thankfully they had imported pasta and pancakes for Ms. Havana, who tends to be more selective. Much to our delight however, on the islands, Havana tried many forms of fish as well as yuca, plantain and tropical juices like passionfruit (she screwed up her face at the tamarind though!) She even ate one my top favorite foods, breadfruit. Those were huge events for Ms. Havana. Much to Don's delight, they imported beer. Of course, on a small island they had to bring in things like drinks, soft drinks and other food necessities to provide for guests!

A rare soft drink to go along with Havana's new eating adventures!

Main Street 

The geometric designs are traditional. I read that while the women sew molas and wear them in current times, it is possible that further back, they used temporary dyes which the Kuna women painted on their skin.

One of the Kuna staff at Yandup and the baby of our host

Our lovely hosts; Mama was a therapist too (she lives in Panama City working with the Special Olympics) and Papa helps run the lodge, living on the island several months a year, alternating with his siblings.  Baby Girl had her first visit to the islands when we were there. Only Kuna can own and operate loding in the islands. Loved that.

The 300 foot bridge from the village to the mainland. The Kuna Yala make frequent use of the bridge to farm in the mountain, go to school and to reach the airport amongst a few other buildings. 

Fast friends; my girls taught Elineth the Mackerna, hopscotch and a few other songs and games and she tried to teach some words in Spanish and Guna. They spent almost an entire day hanging out, playing despite language barriers. The girls plan on keeping in touch.

Our time at Yandup (our lodge) and the San Blas was short yet felt timeless. The welcomed heat from the sun, my beloved Caribbean Sea and the welcoming, warm and open people made us feel relaxed and at home. And while we enjoyed our stay with the other native tribe, we felt much more immersed with the Kuna Yala and so we began to born a connection that will remain with us for a very long time to come.

please visit the website of our lodge if you feel drawn to take the journey to this most special place http://www.yandupisland.com/index.php