Pacific R & R ~ Rio Hato Style

 After our incredible stay in the Caribbean San Blas Islands, we sadly had to pack up and head back to Panama City where we spent a short evening and early morning before heading out to the coast again. The next stop however would be the Pacific Ocean, about two hours east of the city.

Staying in Rio Hato, at an all inclusive was the extreme opposite of our time with the Kuna. It was not a place we had initially planned on staying but when we got overbooked prior to leaving California, it seemed most logical to settle in Rio Hato before we had our final adventures in the mountains just north of the coast.  

All inclusive resorts are not at the top of our places to stay while on holiday. To be honest, I don't care for them at all. But the Sheraton turned out to be a perfect place to lounge, soak up vitamin D and spend ridiculous amounts of hours in pools and searching for seashells. 

We also read lots, had our fill at the buffet meals (which thankfully had lots of Panamanian staples like yucca, plantain and tropical fruits along with Havana's favorites of pasta, pancakes and bread!) and gave the girls a little rest from having stepped outside their comfort zones for days on end. While they were phenomenal little travels, they needed some of the easy, peasy, pace that the all inclusive allowed us.

Below is a glimpse of some of that snails paced comfort we took in. And while it was a lovely stay on the Pacific Coast, I realized once more that I am truly a Caribbean girl at heart.

Fruta de pan

It's no secret that I love breadfruit. From the first time I tasted the 'slave food' back a yad (that's patois for Jamaica) in 1988, I was a fan. 

When we were in Hawaii last year I spied a breadfruit tree but sadly could only enjoy it with my eyes. (read more about that here http://twosmallgems.blogspot.com/2017/03/breadfruit.html) So when it came time to plan for Panama I was certain I would get to enjoy fruta de pan on multiple occassions.

I was wrong. Turns out that the Panamanian's don't really eat bread fruit even though Panama is the perfect climate to grow it. But the Kuna Yala do! So when I spied a tree while in the village I quickly inquired how I could acquire one.

I was told it cost $1.00 as bread fruit is actually an important staple for the Kuna and if it was to be parted with I had to pay up. From my US standards, $1.00, was a steal, I thought as I quickly handed over a US one dollar bill. Our friend Tomas hooked me up and arranged for another Kuna fella to climb one tall tree in his yard to pick one. When he handed it that breadfruit to me, I held onto that like it was a treasure!

The folks back at Yandup Lodge were kind enough to roast it up for me. It was beyond yummy. But the best part? Havana Ruby even tried some (Don and Amara are already big fruta de pan fans!) and she liked it!! I also shared some with the Kuna folks on our small island which made it even tastier.

Breaking bread with breadfruit was quite a delight and made a cherished new memory for our family!

Caribbean Starfish

While in the San Blas Islands, we had to get everywhere by small boat. On one afternoon excursion, our guide/friend Tomas found some magical starfish which the girls took delight in holding. And even greater joy that we put them back safely where we found them!!

Caribbean Cartwheels

Caribbean cartwheels and other gymnastics antics; that's what Amara did on one tiny, uninhabited island where we spent a morning.

To be fair, this is what Amara does most anywhere really.

I think we see her feet in the air and her head towards the ground more often than not!

Kuna Yala Sistas

The women of the Kuna Yala are exquisite, strong, colorful and talented. The beauty we saw in body, mind and spirit was quite moving. Here are just a few of the photos I was able to capture of the Kuna sistas, from youth to elder. 

Kuna Yala-People's of the San Blas Islands

The Midwives, two sisters and a daughter (right)

Ukupseni, the village

The only way to get to the region is by air or a boat that takes 3-4 hours. The village is connected to the mainland  by a 300 foot bridge, where the airport, school and mountains lay.

On the Caribbean side of Panama, amongst hundreds of islands that stretch to the northern part of Columbia, live the Kuna Yala. These are the native peoples who have made their home on the islands for approximately two hundred years.
Prior to making the islands their home (they live on about 50 of the almost 400 islands), they lived in the jungles near the Panama/Columbia border (although I am sure back then there were no borders!)  Harassed by the Panama government for too long; which included being told they could not even wear their traditional clothing or jewelry, they eventually fought back. In February of 1925, there was a revolution. The Kuna stood up for their rights and won! (Woo-hoo!) As a result, they have been living in this autonomous region, relying on their own government, rules and laws. Ultimately, they still fall under the Panamanian government but for the most part, the islands are ruled and run on their own. 

The anti-imperialist that I am was ecstatic at this history. That we happened to be on the islands during the anniversary of the revolution felt like divine providence. We were able to watch their small but powerful parade that reenacted the original revolution and witnessed some dances (only 3,000 live on the island we stayed near). When the sun set we witnessed fireworks from our lodging island (5 minutes away by boat). I think there was much partying and celebrating going on across the waters which we missed due to being isolated on the tiny Yandup island.

The Kuna flag was similar to that we saw in Nepal. The one in Asia is a sacred symbol that Hitler changed for many reasons. The Kuna Yala came up with the symbol to represent two arms linked  together after the revolution. I found it interesting that a culture, so removed from the world, came up with a symbol that was ancient and sacred. The collective unconscious?

watching the activities

Our new friend Tomas informed us this was the kuna leader of this area.

That the Kuna were not allowed to have tourists visit until the 1940's is another part of their history. But since then, they have been very much in charge of who comes and goes, making sure that each tourist pays an entry tax that the villages receive. The Kuna use coconut as currency but the money used from tourist taxes and from the sale of their exquisite molas (a piece of handmade embroidered cloth worn by women but also used for other things by tourists, like throw pillows, bags, wall art, etc) further helps their economy. Being in charge of their region also ensures that the area does not become like so many other places in the world; a western looking tourist trap, filled with unnatural and exploitive expansion of land and sea. The Kuna have made sure to preserve their homeland, keeping the area as it has been for decades. Which had a most welcome secondary gain. It felt like we went back in time.

Tomas and his 10 year  daughter Elineth, who the girls became friends with.

During the celebration of the revolution, a makeshift jail is made and anyone wearing shorts or not wearing the color red is put in. Bail is 25 cents. Amara was desperately wanting to go jail. Oy vey!

       

While there is some running water and electricity (solar) and a cell tower built on one of the uninhabited islands, our home for the four days/three nights did not allow us cell phone service, internet or wifi. We were left to just be for the time were there; swimming and snorkeling during the day; visiting the village during the afternoon and otherwise just chilling with books or card games in an open hut over the water. 

We ate was what was caught in the sea that day along with lots of plantain and other veggies that were farmed on the mainland (gotten to by a bridge from the village island). Although thankfully they had imported pasta and pancakes for Ms. Havana, who tends to be more selective. Much to our delight however, on the islands, Havana tried many forms of fish as well as yuca, plantain and tropical juices like passionfruit (she screwed up her face at the tamarind though!) She even ate one my top favorite foods, breadfruit. Those were huge events for Ms. Havana. Much to Don's delight, they imported beer. Of course, on a small island they had to bring in things like drinks, soft drinks and other food necessities to provide for guests!

A rare soft drink to go along with Havana's new eating adventures!

Main Street 

The geometric designs are traditional. I read that while the women sew molas and wear them in current times, it is possible that further back, they used temporary dyes which the Kuna women painted on their skin.

One of the Kuna staff at Yandup and the baby of our host

Our lovely hosts; Mama was a therapist too (she lives in Panama City working with the Special Olympics) and Papa helps run the lodge, living on the island several months a year, alternating with his siblings.  Baby Girl had her first visit to the islands when we were there. Only Kuna can own and operate loding in the islands. Loved that.

The 300 foot bridge from the village to the mainland. The Kuna Yala make frequent use of the bridge to farm in the mountain, go to school and to reach the airport amongst a few other buildings. 

Fast friends; my girls taught Elineth the Mackerna, hopscotch and a few other songs and games and she tried to teach some words in Spanish and Guna. They spent almost an entire day hanging out, playing despite language barriers. The girls plan on keeping in touch.

Our time at Yandup (our lodge) and the San Blas was short yet felt timeless. The welcomed heat from the sun, my beloved Caribbean Sea and the welcoming, warm and open people made us feel relaxed and at home. And while we enjoyed our stay with the other native tribe, we felt much more immersed with the Kuna Yala and so we began to born a connection that will remain with us for a very long time to come.

please visit the website of our lodge if you feel drawn to take the journey to this most special place http://www.yandupisland.com/index.php

San Blas Islands

There is some deep truth to that saying, 'there's no place like home.'  And while ultimately, the soul is at home everywhere, the body, this earthly body, feels most at home in warm, tropical climates. Ever since I was nineteen years ago and I set foot on the powerhouse tropical island of Jamaica, smack in the middle of the Caribbean, I knew, deep down to my core, I was home. 

When it came time to plan our journey to Panama, I was ecstatic that for the first time in almost fifteen years I would be able be baptised by my beloved Caribbean sea. Don spent eight years living in Jamaica himself, so for us to bring the girls to warm turquoise waters, where palm trees grow abundantly and the sun shines strong would be something special for our family. I have been most fortunate to have explored other tropical locations  in the past decade or so, (the South Pacific, Andaman Sea and the Pacific in Mexico) but there is no place like the Caribbean for this island loving gal.

To my delight, not only would we spent time in the Caribbean, we would also get to spend time with the Guna Yala, the warm, kind indigenous people's, who make their home in that part of the world. We would also spent time exploring uninhabited islands, making new friends and  relaxing by playing cards or reading books on a tiny island that was completely for the grid. Four days and three nights; no phone, no internet.  Minimal electricity provided by solar panels. Plenty of time to enjoy those warm waters, strong sun and warm, kind people in the Caribbean Sea.

Our tiny island.

Our home during the time of our stay.

The conch was the call for meals. Amara learned to blow it. While practicing, some folks thought it was dinner time and came out thinking it was time to eat! Oops

The Guna Yala's village. They live on a few various islands throughout the almost islands in the Caribbean.

The girls snorkeled for hours, finding great delight in the world under the sea. Amara had already fallen in love with snorkeling in Hawaii but this was Havana's first time. Don and I  are huge fans of snorkeling so having all four of us enjoy snorkeling was quite sweet. 

I could have stayed on this island for a very, very long time. Our hut is at the 5th one from the left.

Don getting some much needed rest!

Nearby uninhabited island.

The small 12 seater airplane that took us on memorable 45 minute flight to San Blas.