Monday, March 4, 2019

Myanmar: First Stop Mandalay





We left Chiang Mai late in the evening, which meant landing in Myanmar after dark. As the plane descended we realized how little electricity in the surrounding area near the airport. I was reminded how many parts of the world do not have the same first world luxuries, such a electricity, good roads and even healthy drinking water and this was the first of many decisions with the girls about life in other places. 

Once we landed and cleared immigration we grabbed a taxi for the near one hour drive to the former capital, Mandalay. We knew we were getting closer when we started to see more lights but for a large part of the drive we passed many a motorcycle and bicyclists on the road, who we did not see right away due to lack of lights along the highway.  Our driver had to be on high alert as to not to hit anyone. It almost felt like a video game. Folks coming from the left or right, out of nowhere it seemed. Or we'd have to hit the brakes to avoid a car in front of us, that we did not see.  It was a bit sketchy but it moments like that are what I wanted to the girls to experience. I wanted them to see how other people live in other parts of the world. In this case, no lights on a highway!


I didn't have specific plans for our time in Mandalay other than take Amara (and all of us) to the village where her name originates from and to find the man who had helped me years earlier.  It had been more than a decade since I last visited and I could tell as soon as we crossed into the city limits that Myanmar had come closer into present times. Across the street from our hotel was a 7/11 type store that had an ATM. When I first traveled there in 2003 it was cash only, due to US sanctions. There was also no internet. When the hotel gave us a wifi code I was in pleasantly surprised. That helped me to research and plan some activities for us to do.



One of the excursions we decided on was to go to the ancient city of Mingun, which we would reach by teak boat along the Irrawaddy River. I had done that same trip in  2003 and I thought it would be fun to do take Don and the girls to some places they have seen in photos.
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Mingun in the distance.

Local fisherman.


         
                                                   
When we docked we were met by some eager tour guides. While we normally would avoid tourist traps and touts, we thought it would be quite a different experience to take a ride in an ox drawn carriage, complete with wooden wheels. It was a ride back in time! 




 Hsinbyume Pagoda (Myatheindan Pagoda), built by King Bagyidaw - in 1816. It was told to us that the King built this for his wife who died in childbirth. Some memorial!

 The girls were fascinated by the size of these ancient moments and their history. They also were taken in by the local people and how they lived. It was a lot to take in; this remote village that looked, smelled and operated so different from their own home. The girls eyes were wide as they came to understand how people live in other places. Stopping in a small 'store' for snacks further provided stepping outside their comfort zone as all we could find were locally grown peanuts (so yummy!) and some corn type chips (unusual but good!) I knew that experiences like this would open their hearts and minds. They were also intrigued by two women who were trying to get us to buy things. One, who looked to be in her 40's said she needed money for school. Amara didn't like that she was lying ("Mama, she's not that age is she? Why is she saying that?") which led to another important travel lesson; those trying to hustle to make a dollar from those who have more than they do and the importance of gratitude for the good fortunes we have. (We bought their necklaces in support). 
Souvenirs for sale.

Typical river boat.
 Our first full day in Myanmar made it clear that while the country had made steps to become more modern, it still felt like we had stepped back in time. The pace, the way many went about their daily lives to acquire food and money, it often did not feel that modern.  There was something refreshing about that, not having the frenetic energy of the high tech Bay Area but I also had hopes that one day life could be a bit easier for those who had been kept behind a military dictatorship for so long.


Our return passage was quite relaxing.  We talked some about what we saw and then the girls were expressed their desire to get back to a swim in the hotel pool upon our return.  Which they did before heading out for our next adventure later that evening. It was a good first day in Myanmar.


The return passage to Mandalay was the snooze cruise!


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